elsewhere for a living. In Howard’s case, he went back to school and discovered history. He returned to Crisfield and began volunteering at the museum. When the opportunity for a paying job turned up, he jumped at it. Now he leads tours, works on the foundation’s new Cedar Marsh Wildlife Preserve—which will soon have a new kayak trail—and changes lightbulbs, as needed. He also works with legions of school groups that come through, the dozen Elderhostel programs the foundation hosts each year and now cruise ships.
“Cruise ships?” I exclaimed.
“Two years ago there were none,” Howard explained, “last year there were a couple, and this summer there will be eight to ten cruise boats stopping at Crisfield.” He left to take a call from the Mariners Museum in Newport News, Va., as foundation director Chris Tyler came in. “They are calling to confirm arrangements for an Elderhostel cruise that will leave from there and will stop here,” she said, before also leaving to field a call.
“Many of these cruises ships are Americana Cruise Line ships and were built right next door in Salisbury,” Tim Howard said when he returned. The foundation, he explained, arranges programs for the cruise passengers, including trips to nearby Smith and Tangier islands. Some cruises are birding excursions and some geared toward history.
After perusing the museum and its exhibits, which range from arrowheads to all manner of maritime artifacts (including some decoys by Crisfield’s world famous artists in wood, the Ward brothers), Hal and I retrieved the ship’s dog and strolled into town. Meandering through the residential areas, we saw relic after elegant relic of oyster prosperity: many dozens of Victorian homes in