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energetic mix of historic architecture, empty storefronts, long-established businesses, discount stores and intriguing upstarts. It is also the home of one of the locals’ new favorite restaurants, Mi Pueblito Grill (“It’s not just Mexican. They really cook there,” Susan Sterling told me. “I’ve even been served quail.”) 

Mexican-style quail would have to wait; I had an appointment with the mayor. So Hal and Skippy went off on their own, and I headed for the village offices, which are near the top of Main Street. Two years ago, Mayor Percy Purnell rode into office on a wave of public indignation that brought a record number of voters to the poles, ousting the incumbent mayor and most of the council. Not surprisingly, it had to do with change. Purnell and his allies objected to a public/private revitilization project that would have been privately funded, but would also, Purnell said, have given the private interest too much control. And, yes, condominiums were an underlying element. It was four years ago that the first condominiums were built, Purnell continued, and before the election more than 400 new units had been approved. Not that the new mayor opposes condominiums. “Condos are not a bad thing,” he said, “they improve the tax base and allow the city to do things it wouldn’t otherwise be able to. Would I have done it? Perhaps a little differently.”

Purnell is one of Crisfield’s many been-here-befores. Twenty years ago, he was mayor. Then he moved away to work. Recently he returned and ran for council. “All of my best memories center on Crisfield. I feel it needs to be protected. Times are going to change, but it needs to be done so people here won’t,” Purnell said. With an average annual income of less than ,000,

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